One of the cultural highlights of our visit to Lisbon was to go to the world famous Gulbenkian Museum (many photos).The museum is set in what is like a countryside forest and gardens. You can see photos of the gardens and their history here. The photo below shows the impressive entrance to the museums – the Modern Art Museum (good photos) – in Portuguese Centro de Arte Moderna Gulbenkian (CAM) and the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, which we visited. On passing the Modern Art Museum, there was a huge queue round the entrance and when we returned two hours later, the queue had not lessened. This is a grand entrance, with the smooth stone base and the iron framed posters. It is a very pleasant walk through the woods and gardens – a very peaceful experience. The museum was named after its founder Calouste Gulbenkian who was born in Turkey but spent much of his life in London. The website tells us that Throughout his life, he assembled an eclectic and unique collection that was influenced by his travels and his personal taste, and sometimes involved lengthy and complex negotiations with the leading experts and specialist dealers. His collection now totals over 6,000 pieces from all over the world and dating from antiquity until the early twentieth century.
Entrance to the Gulbenkian museums (Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)
The museum houses a vast collection of art, furniture and sculpture, so you cannot possibly see it all and more importantly, appreciate it all in one visit, so we spent more time in some sections, had lunch and returned to see some more. In total, we probably only paid close attention to about one-third of the collection. One of the first areas covers ancient history and next to that, one of the standout displays was of stunningly beautiful 15th/16th century carpets from what the information board called Central Persia. The photo below shows one of the carpets and the intricate patterns and range of colours on show are breath-taking, especially when you look closely. The carpet is made from wood pile and is of the Safavid period. The Safavid dynasty ruled central Persia (modern Iran) in the 16th century and and a wide range of art works, including carpets, were developed. You can see a Safavid carpet in great detail in this Christie’s video – very worthwhile watching. You have to admire the work of the weavers who made the carpets by hand, using a technique called hand knotting, so each carpet would have taken an age to complete.
Persian carpet in the Gulbenkian Museum
The museum has a very impressive selection of 18th century French furniture and this article (superb examples) by curator Clara Serra states With the renovation of the 18th-century gallery we will have the opportunity to see a new display of the exceptional pieces of furniture that belong to the Gulbenkian collection. The article shows a range of amazing craftsmanship and design in furniture such as the armoire (cupboard) by André Boulles and Serra comments The most striking feature of his production is the marquetry work in tortoiseshell and brass. The one piece in the exhibition that most drew my attention was the bronze Cartel Clock made by the famous French sculptor Jacques Caffieri (biography). The photo below – best seen enlarged – shows the highly ornate clock with its figures on top. One cherub appears to be attacking the other one which is unarmed and pleading for mercy. The blue Roman numerals on the clock provide an effective contrast to the bronze. I cropped the photo and while it may look an odd angle, it does allow you to see more if the intricate bronze work on display.
Cartel clock in the Gulbenkian Museum
In the museum, there is a large section devoted to paintings from across Europe as well as several outstanding sculptures. One of the paintings that stood out was Portrait of Miss Constable by George Romney. The Romney Society tell us that George Romney, who died in Kendal in 1802 was one of the most celebrated portrait painters of his time, along with Sir Joshua Reynolds and Thomas Gainsborough. Romney gained his reputation through his portraits of upper class women and this is one example. His work is displayed in many countries around the world. The painting of the 17 year old Miss Constable is beautifully detailed in her facial expression – neither happy nor sad but perhaps curious – her Bergére hat, her long hair and her frilly blouse. There is also a clever contrast between the darker background and her face and neck. I found this a very intriguing painting.
George Romney painting
There were so many outstanding pieces of art, such as a Rodin sculpture and Quing Dynasty vases, in the museum, which makes it hard to choose individual items. My final choice is Dutch landscape by Jan van der Heyden. The photo below shows one of the artist’s landscapes. The National Gallery (more examples) tells us Van der Heyden executed a few landscapes and still lifes, but was chiefly a painter of townscapes, notable for their exceptionally detailed handling. Imaginary views, anticipating the capricci of 18th-century Venetian painters, are common among his works – the figures are often by other artists. The photo shows perhaps an idyllic scene by a river with a church on the riverside. There are two figures tending to a small boat, possibly used for fishing or carrying people or goods, on the opposite bank. If you enlarge the photo, you will see other figures – a man on a white horse waving, a man and a women with a child on the left, and two people on horses to the right of the church. Like other Dutch or Italian artists, van der Heyden portrays people with a different social status. I particularly like the reflections in the water and if you look closely, you will see that the reflections stretch across the painting.
van der Heyden’s Dutch Landsccape
The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum is a must cultural stop if you are ever in Lisbon, given its wide range of objects and paintings and its delightful setting.
The architecture history site tells us that Lisbon can be considered a meeting point of various cultures. It is a place where many different architectures have always coexisted: the Baixa (downtown), the commercial space of the city, designed by right-angled boulevards in the 18th century, is perfectly connected with the irregular design of the Alfama, the medieval quarter. As you walk around the city, you notice old and newer buildings, often side by side, with some of the older buildings beautifully decorated by tiles of blue – azulejos in Portuguese. The two photos below show an older building next to a newer one and you can see that the elegance of the two buildings has been retained in the newer one, is there is no clash of styles. The balconies, which are everywhere in the city, have been retained and it is one of the great pleasures of walking around Lisbon to view the great variety of balconies. You can see a huge range of Lisbon balconies – old and new – here.
Traditional front of flats in a Lisbon Street (Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)Modernised building front adjacent to the older one above
There are numerous graceful and elegant historical buildings and archways in Lisbon an the most famous – and most visited – of these is on the north side of the Praca de Commercio (good photos). This is the magnificent Arco da Rua Augusta (photo below) which will be seen in the video below. In the enlarged photo, you will see the Latin inscription “virtvtibvs maiorvm” (the greatest virtues) and this is related to what the architect saw as the key values of Portuguese patriotism and salutes heroes of the country’s history, some of whom such as the explorer Vasco da Gama are portrayed in the statues. There is a viewing point at the top which gives panoramic views of the city. This aesthetically pleasing, architecturally stunning arch, with its coat of arms, graceful and elegant statues and columns leads the visitor to a long street full of restaurants and shops.
Arco da Rua Augusta in Lisbon
I took this video of the square. it is best watched on YouTube full screen.
Walking up the long straight street from the arch, you come to another large and very attractive square in Lisbon. We had been this square before and admired its central fountain. Looking left, I saw a sign for the Beer Museum (good photos). Initially, I thought it was a good name for a pub/restaurant but on going inside, we found that it had a large restaurant but also a museum upstairs. When you go in, you are greeted by friendly staff and behind their desk is a huge display of beers in glasses from all over the world. The photo below shows the display, with the motto Um Bainde ao Mundo, in English A Toast to the World.
Ornate display of beers in the Beer Museum
The museum traces the history of beer brewing from earliest times. The website above tells us us that The first archaeological vestiges of beer date back to the Neolithic period, when man first began to master farming techniques, more than 7,000 years ago in Mesopotamia. Beer is believed to have been born in the Middle East. Historical references indicate that the Sumerians produced a pleasant drink resulting from the fermentation of cereals. In the middle ages, beer production in monasteries was improved by monks developing new flavours and technology. The beer was provided to pilgrims and used by the monks themselves but, as production increased, excess beer was sold to the local communities and was subject to tax. The link to monasteries holds firm in my home town of Dunbar and the Belhaven Brewery site states that beer was first made in Dunbar in the 1200s by Benedictine monks as a site for agriculture, malting and brewing, and the connection to our past endures to this day. Many of the cellars dug by these monks are still used by the brewery today. My tour of the museum was enhanced as my pal Roger is a former chief engineer who played a key role in building maltings around the UK and Australia. Some of the older equipment on show can be seen in the photo below.
Historical brewing equipment in the Beer Museum
At the end of the tour, in the price of the ticket, a choice of one of the bewildering range of beers in the fridges was included. There are bottles of beer from all over the world on display. The first choice – photo below – was Praxis Coimbra and their site (good photos) which shows the brewing process, states Our Beer is produced according to a 100% NATURAL process where the selection of the raw material is the main secret, starting with ÁGUA DE COIMBRA. Coimbra (good photos) is a Portuguese city north of Lisbon and very well known for its university. It is a former capital of Portugal and lies on the Rio Mondiego river, the longest in Portugal.
Portuguese beer
The second beer – photo below – was a West Coast IPA and this one was brewed in the Alentejo region, more famous for its wine. This site tells us that West Coast IPAs are often made with a process known as “dry hopping.” This involves adding hops later in the brewing process to extract further aromas and flavors. West coast IPAs are also boiled longer than other types of beer, resulting in pronounced bitterness and a bold, piney aroma. It was certainly very tasty and served in the museum’s shapely glasses – 2nd photo below. If you are ever in Lisbon, this is a one-off visit and not to be missed if you are a beer connoisseur or even just a beer drinker.
My pal Roger and I recently went to Lisbon on our annual trip to a) see a European city and b) take in a football match. Our first cultural stop was Lisbon’s impressive Maritime Museum – Museu de Marinha in Portuguese. This site tells us that the museum is A surprising collection of more than 1700 pieces, including more than 400 naval models and 30 ships (some perfectly preserved), along with relics, maps, tools, and documents wait for you at this museum located at one wing of the beautiful Jeronimos Monastery. The monastery dates back to 1502 and is a huge structure of architectural importance in Europe. You can read more about the monastery and view a range of photos here. The photo below shows the entrance to the museum and it is a stunning sight, with it thick walls, two beautiful towers and arched entrance doors. The site above states that it is a masterpiece of Manueline style, a unique Portuguese artistic movement that melts late-gothic elements with renaissance elements. As you look at the building, you have to wonder how it was constructed using 16th century tools and equipment and how skilled the stonemasons must have been.
Entrance to the Maritime Museum in Lisbon (Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)
Once inside the museum, you can see a huge map of how the Portuguese saw the world in the 16th century – see the map and objects from the museum in this video. At the start of the museum’s exhibitions, you see a range of replica ships, including the Portuguese Caravel which the site states Purpose-built for traversing the oceans, the wide-hulled caravel (caravela in Portuguese) was arguably Portugal’s most significant contribution to maritime history. The photo below shows a replica of one of the caravels, which dated back to the 15th century but became bigger and more solid as Portuguese explorers went on long voyages and created the Portuguese Empire. The replica ship is gracefully and elegantly presented with fine detail off the sails, the guns an the solid body of the ship. A bonus of it being in a glass case is the shadow beneath.
Portuguese Caravel in glass case
In the museum, there is an impressive display of artillery and this site tells us that Naval artillery was the single greatest advantage the Portuguese held over their rivals in the Indian Ocean – indeed over most other navies – and the Portuguese crown spared no expense in procuring and producing the best naval guns European technology permitted. The photo below shows an example of one of the powerful canon used by the navy. This weapon was used in the 18th century and is ornamented with a coat of arms. On the wall, you can see the tools used to load the canon, which when fired could cause enormous damage to enemy ships, most of which were smaller and less well built than the Portuguese naval craft. It should be noted that the Portuguese Empire was built on trade with the rest of the world and that this included extensive trading of slaves.
Portuguese canon used on warships
Other attractions in the museum as you walk round include beautifully carved wooden wheels used to steer the ships. The photo below shows an example of one wheel which has a compass in the middle. The wheel, with its central compass, is a work of art in itself, with its carved wood, iron wheel rim on both sides and the compass with the large pointer. In the middle, there is a coiled rope and this was dropped down through the deck and run horizontally along the ship’s floor to the tiller, thus making the wheel (or helm) steer the ship.
Correction. My brother in law in New Zealand, who is a former ship’s captain, harbour master and renowned pilot, commented I would venture that rather than a Compass as a centrepiece, it’s more likely to be a Rudder Angle Indicator——all electric nowadays of course—- but an important thing to know hence the pointer, related as this would be to the number of turns of rope which had been applied so would indicate just how the rudder had been moved and how it was pointed given that this was not visible from on deck of course. He added You might wonder why there are TWO connected wheels Jim? In bad weather, with “direct” steering like this, swell effects on the rudder had the ability to transmit such that the wheel could kick, quite violently. At such times, it was common to have an additional Helmsman to take some of the extra load. Again, nowadays, all sorted electrically and hydraulically with modern vessels having a tiny little joystick.
Ship’s wheel with compass in the Museu de Marinha
The museum is housed in a high ceilinged space, shown the photo below. After this section which features many replica ships in glass cases, there are further areas showing weapons such as the Hotchkiss Gun Revolver, a predecessor of modern machine guns; historical paintings relating to the Portuguese naval battles; navigation instruments and maps; and full size, highly decorated royal barges – see photo examples here. If you are visiting Lisbon, put this visit on your list. While it is not in the city centre, it can be visited either by bus or in one of the city’s very cheap taxis.
On our recent visit to Frankfurt, we went into the impressive cathedral. The official name of of the building is Kaiserdom St. Bartholomäus (St. Bartholomew Cathedral) and the visit Frankfurt site (good photos) tells us Frankfurt Imperial Cathedral is one of the main sights of the city. It bears the name of the holy apostle St. Bartholomew and was built in the Gothic style between 1315 and 1358 over the remains of a palace chapel built by Louis the Pious in 822. Strictly speaking, it is not a cathedral as it was never the seat of a bishop, but was named a cathedral in the 18th century as kings and emperors had been crowned there. The photo below shows the main altar, with its high columns and three exquisitely carved windows. This site states The Gothic church has a symmetrical, cross-shaped floor plan. The high altar at the centre of the choir is decorated with a fine Gothic retable from the second half of the fifteenth century. Looking up retable, one dictionary definition is a frame or shelf enclosing decorated panels or revered objects above and behind an altar. The retable is made of gold, emphasising the wealth of the church.
The main altar in Frankfurt Cathedral (Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)
The photo below shows the magnificent organ pipes in the cathedral. The organ was not playing during our visit but The organ sound unfolds majestically in the great acoustics of the cathedral space according to the cover of a new CD (good photos) by the the cathedral’s Director of Music Andreas Bolz. The graceful and elegant organ pipes are structured in an art deco like styles and could be a sculpture in themselves if you take away the patterned and attractive and aesthetically pleasing stained-glass window behind. The panels behind the organ may be speakers but are beautifully shaped, perhaps leading to a crescendo of music as the organ thunders through the church.
Organ pipes in Frankfurt Cathedral
The cathedral may date back to the 14th century but suffered widespread devastation in the second word war. The information board outside showed the photo below which depicts the terrible destruction of the city’s buildings. The board states that more than 2000 semi-wooden buildings in the city were completely destroyed, as were stone buildings leaving only skeletons of masonry. The cathedral’s interior vanished under flames which swept through and it was completely rebuilt. On entry, this looks like a modern cathedral, with its clean red stone columns.
Frankfurt in 1944
I took the video below and you will see the features mentioned above. The cathedral is very much worth a visit if you are ever in Frankfurt. For the religious and humanist visitor, this is a place of tranquillity and reflection. If only the organ had been playing …
Come the autumn, come some pink, enchanting flowers which are multi-headed, with trumpets emerging from a bulbous top. These are Nerine, pronounced in this part of the world, but perhaps not elsewhere, as Nyreenie. The RHS site (good photos) tells us that Nerine are also known as Guernsey Lilies and Flowering in early to mid-autumn, hardy nerine offer starry pink and white blooms that are invaluable bulbs for bringing late colour to the garden. Here we see a plethora of colour, with many shades of pink and the numerous individual flowers, all seeming to seek our attention. At this time of year, when other flowers are fading or being de-potted and stored for next summer, the Nerine burst into flower. Nerine come in a range of colours although the pink ones below are most common. To look at photos of other colours, see here.
Nerine head
The name Nerine has Greek origins and the Alpine Society (Good photos) tell us that The genus was named by Rev William Herbert in 1820. It is believed he named them after the Greek sea nymph Nerine, daughter of the Sea God Nereis, or possibly Nereide, daughter of Nereus, the Greek god of the Oceans. The photo below shows a Nerine with a large cyclamen in a blue pot. The pinks of the cyclamen complement those of the Nerine. The cyclamen will last through the winter but the Nerine will not, although they do keep their shape and colour for a number of weeks.
On our recent trip to Frankfurt am Main, we took the train to Heidelberg to visit the famous castle. The visit Heidelberg site (good photos) states that Heidelberg is considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. Every year, the city which lies on the Neckar fascinates millions of guests and gives something to discover and experience for everyone. While there are many different aspects of this city by the river – see here for examples – our time was limited and after a good lunch, we made our way to the castle which dominates the city skyline. The ticket to the castle includes a short ride on the funicular railway (good photos) and you are then presented with a magnificent castle to explore. The castle guide (good photos) tells us that the castle is first referred to in 1225 and it was destined to become one of the grandest castles of the Renaissance.
The magnificent facades of the castle, which are still very well preserved, give you a stunning start to your tour of the castle. The photo below shows Ottheinrich‘s (biography and portrait) Wing and was built by Prince-Elector Ottheinrich von der Pfalz (1502–1559) [who] was an ideal Renaissance prince, creating important architectural structures and acting as a patron of the arts. It is a complex exterior with five floors of carved stone and an impressive array of statues at each level. The figures are heroes of ancient history and the figure is of Otthenreich himself is in the central position of the façade. You can see close up photos of the figures here. The many stone masons who built the wing, using very elementary building techniques, were master craftsmen and mostly go unrecognised in the history of the castle.
Ottheinrich’s Wing at Heidelberg Castle (Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)
Adjacent to Ottheinreich’s wing is the equally impressive Friedrich’s Wing (good photos) which the website describes as one of the most interesting residential castles at Heidelberg Castle. It entices visitors with a lavishly decorated façade and castle chapel. The Great Terrace offers a fantastic view of Heidelberg’s historic district. It adds Prince-Elector Friedrich IV had the stately residential palace built by his architect, Johannes Schoch, between 1601 and 1607, on the pedestal of a previous medieval structure. The electoral family lived on the two top floors. The attic floor was reserved for the servants. The photo below shows another grand and imposing building which was partially restored in the late 19th century, with new ornately decorated rooms, one of which you can see here. As with the previous ruler, Friedrich had figures from the dynasty’s past added to the front of the building and these are impressive sculptures when seen close up.
Friedrich’s Wing at Heidelberg Castle
One of the most famous tourist attractions inside Heidelberg Castle is The Great Barrel (good photos) which was initially installed in 1591 and held 130,000 litres of wine from the vast lands owned by the Prince Electors. This was destroyed in the Thirty Years’ War and eventually replaced by a wooden barrel which held 220,000 litres of wine in the 1760s. The photo below shows the front of the barrel, lit by a nearby chandelier. Tourists can climb stairs to see the length of this huge barrel via a wooden platform. In some ways, this barrel can be seen as a grotesque show of power and wealth in a time when most local citizens lived in relative poverty.
The Great Barrel or Tun at Heidelberg Castle
From the terrace of the Friedrich’s wing, you get a superb view down the River Neckar to Heidelberg itself. I made this video from that point.
We visited the attractive city of Frankfurt Am Main recently. Our decision to go Frankfurt was influenced not only by the opportunity to see this famous German city, but also by the daytime flight times. We have given up going for flights to destinations which leave Edinburgh airport at 6.30am. The (admittedly biased) VisitFrankfurt site claims that Frankfurt is not only a meeting point of travellers from all over the world, but also a melting pot of cultures, flavours and innovation. Here, where the River Main unfolds its calm power, you will discover much more than just an imposing skyline. Frankfurt airport is huge as it is a hub for travellers going on to many destinations, but is is immaculately clean, very well signposted and has people to help in many parts of the airport. On our list before travelling was the Städel Museum, (good photos) the city’s main art gallery, situated across the wide Main river from our hotel. The site above tells us that From medieval times to the present: The Städel Museum’s permanent exhibition takes you on a journey through more than 700 years of art. On more than 15,000 square metres of exhibition space you can take inspiration from paintings and sculptures, photographs, drawings and prints. So this is not a gallery that you can see in one visit but you can buy a ticket in the morning and return in the afternoon. It would take many visits to see all the exhibits. The photo below shows the imposing entrance to the gallery, with its symmetrical design and beautifully formed columns and carved stone balcony at the top. It was designed for the Frankfurt banker and philanthropist Johann Friedrich Städel (biography) in 1878 by Oskar Sommer to replace a previous building. The museum is on the south side of the river, but can be seen from the north side. It is a magnificent building with beautiful gardens in front of it.
Entrance to the Städel Museum in Frankfurt. (Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)
We returned in the afternoon to see the main exhibition, entitled Städel Women: Women Artists between Frankfurt and Paris around 1900 and this is an excellently curated exhibition, full of fascinating portraits and landscapes by women. The photo below, which is also on the exhibition poster, is by Louise Catherine Breslau (other examples of work) and shows a Junge Frau sitting next to a vase of chrysanthemum flowers. This is an intriguing painting as the viewer has to decide whether this attractive and beautifully painted young woman, who stares directly at us, is giving a wry smile or is looking bored with the posing process. Her left hand on her head may indicate the latter. The detail in the painting is stunning, from the woman’s hair to her eyes, to her mouth and the delicate shape of her left hand. The pattern on her lacy dress and sleeves are reflective of the chrysanthemums, which are of various colours and at various stages of maturity. This is quite a large painting and immediately draws your eye to it when you enter the gallery room.
Young Woman with Chrysanthemums (English translation) by Louise Catherine Breslau
The second painting I chose from in this remarkable exhibition is by Mathilde Battenberg (more examples of her work) and this painting is of her pupil Milli Langebartels. The information board tells us Here the teacher pictured her pupil with an open art catalogueon her lap, which is emblematic of her interest in modern painting… Battenberg developed aplanar style, distinguished by strong contours and the use of ornamental elements. Looking up planar style I found that Objects in a planar painting are usually laid out parallel to the picture plane, we tend to see the flat sides of things. There is a certain flatness to this painting, although not to any great extent. This very attractive woman is shown looking at us with a rather quizzical look, not smiling but looking very peaceful in her own world, and the artist captures her long hands with superb detail.
Portrait of Milli Langebartels by Mathilde Battenberg
My third choice – and I could easily have chosen three different paintings – is a second painting by Louise Breslau and the information board tells us that Here Breslau painted her colleague in the open air. The scene conveys a certain immediacy, as if Feurgard had only briefly interrupted her work. The subject’s bold gaze reveals that Breslau had undertaken a new phase to stage a new phenomenon: the professional woman artist. This is a very large work and worth studying at length. The realist portrayal of the exquisitely dressed Feurgard, with her attractive hat, blouse, lace scarf, skirt and shoes contrasts with the more impressionist depiction of the apple tree blossom. The trees and the easel appear to be pointing to the young, delicately skinned artist and your eyes are immediately drawn to her face. This is a very tranquil setting for the young artist who looks completely at her ease, touched by the elegant and graceful branches and flowers.
Portrait of Julie Feurgard (Under the Apple Trees) by Louise Breslau
At the Städel, you can climb a winding flight of stairs up to the roof from where you get a spectacular view of Frankfurt and its modern, skyscraper filled skyline. Further east, you can see glimpses of the steeples in the old town. The wide and gently flowing river The Main splits the city in two, with many other museums along the road from the Städel. It was a beautiful day in Frankfurt and the comfortable 25 degrees added to the pleasure of our visit. I made this video below from the rooftop.
Last Saturday was a bright sunny day with a big Australian sky. I took a walk along to Dunbar Harbour (good photos). I walked from the High Street to the Glebe. Here you have an excellent view of the Dhu Rock and the area where Dunbar’s outdoor pool (good historic videos) used to be. The pool’s heyday was in the 1950s and 1960s when the population of Dunbar doubled because of visitors to the town. Turning towards the harbour, I looked down to see the clear blue water just covering the rocks and it looked Mediterranean. In the photo below, you can see how clear the water is and the different shades of blue and turquoise. The sea was very calm here, with only a gentle ripple on the waves. At the top right, you can just see the beginning of the rocks that make up Dunbar Castle, of which more below. Above the rock at the bottom right, there are now empty, white ledges as the nesting kittiwakes have now gone out to sea and will not return until next spring. I have featured the kittiwakes on this blog a few times and a search on the blog for kittiwakes will provide a number of links, such as this one, which features close-up photos of kittiwakes and their chicks.
Clear water and rocks near Dunbar Castle (Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)
Walking east to the back of the castle, the blue sky remained but a distinctly cool north east wind could be felt. The photo below shows part of Dunbar Castle, with a gap between the walls. There used to be a stone arch connecting both parts of the castle but it collapsed in 1993. See more on this on the Dunbar and District History website, of which I am webmaster and main contributor. There is a photo of the still standing archway on that website – second photo below. I managed to photo a visiting yacht making a wide turn out of the harbour, before heading out to sea, echoing the fishing boat in the second photo. On the right, you can see the mast of another visitor, this time coming into the harbour. Detailed advice for visiting yachts can be seen on the Dunbar Harbour Trust website e.g. here.
Part of Dunbar Castle and visiting yachtsCastle with archway
Going into the harbour itself, I looked up to the castle and saw the strength of the north east wind by looking at the RNLI flag on the top of the castle. In the photo below, you can see that the flag is being blown south east. On a calm day, the flag would face the other way. The major difference between the castle in the postcard above, apart from the arch, and what you see today when looking at the castle, is that when the postcard photo was taken, the castle was open to visitors, who could climb up to the castle stack and get 360 degree views across the sea and the land. On the left and right of the castle walls, you can see the empty kittiwake nests, so unlike when the kittiwakes were nesting, there was no sound emanating from the castle walls. You can listen to the kittiwakes joyous (or otherwise) calls here.
RNLI flag on Dunbar Castle
Looking through some old photos, I found some dating back to 2004. This was when my wife and I went to Australia to live for a time, as I was appointed to a teaching post in the School of Information Studies at Charles Sturt University. The campus – one of many – where I was based was in Wagga Wagga in New South Wales. The visitnsw site states that Wagga Wagga is the largest inland city in NSW, although it hides the fact well in wide, leafy streets and low-slung, historic architecture. This vibrant regional centre sits pretty on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River in the heart of the Riverina. The word Murrumbidgee means plenty water or big water in an Aboriginal language. The river was a great source of food, water, wood and wilidlife for the Wiradjuri nation, on whose land Wagga (as it it is known to locals) was built. European settlers (or invaders and land grabbers from an Aboriginal point of view) built the first buildings and established the first farms here in the early 19th century. There is a very peaceful and pleasant walk along the river in Wagga. The photo below shows the elegant and graceful gum trees which line the river and you can see how the gum trees shed their bark and reveal the smooth, white trunks below. In the sunshine, the trunks often take on a bluish tinge, as you can see at the foot of the photo. These are red gums – Eucalyptus camaldulensis – and the most common species of gums. You can read more about a red gum project here (good photo). I like the reflections of the trees and the cow in the photo.
Through the gum trees in Wagga Wagga
One of the iconic sounds in rural Australia is the noisy cry of the sulphur crested cockatoos. My first experience of these birds was when, not long after we moved to Wagga, I was out cycling on a country road. I did not see the birds as I cycled past and then there was this piercing screech before the birds flew past – a frightening experience. One of the remarkable features of the river in Wagga at dusk is the arrival of very excited and very loud sulphur crested cockatoos – photo below. If you check the link and scroll down to Calls, you will hear the screeching noise these birds make. Imagine the racket you will hear if you go down to the river at dusk and maybe 200 birds arrive to roost, but not before they produce a deafening cacophony. They are attractive looking birds with their distinctive yellow crest and white plumage and will land quite close to you. This detailed site tells us that The scientific name Cacatua galerita means ‘capped cockatoo’. Kakatua is the Indonesian word for a cockatoo, and the species name derives from the Latin galer meaning cap, referring to the bright yellow crest.
Sulphur crested cockatoo at the Murrumbidgee River
I also managed to take a photo of one of Australia’s most iconic birds, the laughing kookaburra. This site tells us that The laughing kookaburra is the world’s largest kingfisher. It measures up to 46 centimetres from the tip of its beak to the tip of its tail. When compared to the little kingfisher, which is only 12 centimetres long, the laughing kookaburra is truly a giant. Its plumage is shades of whites and browns, which help it to blend easily into its environment. The young kookaburra I noticed near the river kindly sat on the tree trump, while I took photos. In the photo below – one of my favourites – the bird is seen with a backdrop of the river, the reflections of the trees in the river and other birds at the water’s edge. The overhanging trees add to the scene, and some of these have been removed to tidy up the river’s edge and make the area more open and people friendly. The term Wagga Beach is partially meant as a joke as Wagga is 400 miles inland, but there is an area of sand at the edge of river in one part, along from where the photo is taken. You can hear the cry of the laughing kookaburra here. We regularly heard the call/laugh of these birds in the woods behind where we stayed in Wagga.
We recently paid another visit to Seacliff Beach (plethora of photos) which is nearly 10 miles/16.2K along the coast from Dunbar and is recognised as having the smallest harbour in the UK. There is a wide area of sandy beach which stretches to your right and left as you go down the wooden staircase. The harbour is to the left on the rocky part of the shoreline. The photo below was taken at the edge of the water. You can see the Bass Rock in the centre and to the right is St Baldred’s Boat/Cross out to which you can walk at the lowest point of the tide. There had been a high tide, so there were small clumps of seaweed on the shore. You would not normally see this in the summer time. In the warmer weather, the beach is a haven for families and horse riders, but because of it’s location – down a narrow track and car entry via a toll – the beach is never very busy as people are well spread out.
The shore at Seacliff Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)
Thence to the harbour and it is a remarkable sight, with (photo below) its attractive , lined, natural pink walls, with reinforcement behind on the left. The harbour was carved out of the rock and the link above notes “This was constructed in 1890 by Andrew Laidley, the then laird, who used a steam engine and compressed air to cut the stone”. The mass of sandstone was known as The Gegan. The entrance is so narrow that, presumably, the few fishing boats who use the harbour would only be able to enter it when the sea was fairly calm. The smooth walls of the harbour contrast with the rougher sandstone beyond.
Seacliff Harbour
Looking north west from the harbour you get a view of (photo below) Tantallon Castle (good photos) which dominates the promontory. The castle dates back to the 14th century and is famous for its 12 feet thick sandstone walls. You can visit the castle and admire not only the views to Seacliff, the Bass Rock and Fife across the water, but also to the fertile fields of East Lothian. This was a location where the castle owners cold see potential enemies approaching by land or by sea. Just below the castle, at the harbour entrance, you can see the old winding mechanism that fishermen would have used to pull up boxes of fish, crabs and lobsters.
Seacliff Harbour and Tantallon Castle
I took this 360 degree video from the rockface above the harbour.
Thence to New South Wales. I recently sent my friend and ex-colleague Bob some photos of Seacliff and he replied that he often drives along the Seacliff Bridge (good photos). The Visit New South Wales website tells us that the bridge is “a highlight along the Grand Pacific Drive. A drive which takes in 140 kilometres worth of coastal scenery from the Royal National Park, Loftus down to Nowra. The bridge has become an icon to the people of Wollongong and the world, once again welcoming tourists annually to this picturesque coastal road. Opened in December 2005, the Sea Cliff Bridge offers visitors the chance to get out of the car and stretch their legs. It is also a great viewing platform for migrating whales heading north/south during migrating season“. The Grand Pacific Drive (good photos and video) is very popular with tourists and is one of the iconic drives in Australia. The photo below shows the bridge at sunset. This is very well crafted photo, incorporating the rocky hillside, the bridge, the partly cloudy sky and the dramatic, pure white sun duplicating itself in the water.
Seacliff Bridge NSW Photo courtesy of visitnsw.com
I have finished reading Prophet Song (Guardian review) by Paul Lynch. This book deservedly won the 2023 Booker Prize, unlike a recent winner, the truly awful, badly written, tick box winner Shuggie Bain. This is a relentlessly tense and compelling novel and you will be captivated by the story of one woman’s fight for justice as a totalitarian government takes control of southern Ireland from its centre in Dublin. Eilish Stack is a strong woman and she has to be, as the novel opens with a visit from the new Secret Police who want to talk to her husband, a trade union official. The control of the state increases gradually, and all civil rights are cancelled. This gives the novel an Orwellian atmosphere and Lynch implies that, under certain circumstances, any country could follow this path. Eilish’s father has early stage dementia and she struggles to keep her family in Ireland, despite her sister’s wishes from Canada. There are moving scenes when Eilish’s father struggles with memories and refuses help. Lynch is also a lyrical writer at times in the novel and Eilish reflects on the lengthening days in January and February and the appearance of snowdrops. Lynch writes about the snowdrops ..printing the air with white with Eilish, bending to look at the flower close up .. met in that instant an image of what Larry has missed. Larry is her husband who had been taken by the state, with no access allowed. Visiting her father, Eilish ..watches his hands, like sand the wrinkled skin as though the tide had gone our past his knuckles. Later in the book, when the government troops are bombing what they refer to as rebel areas Eilish, trying to get home safely ..sees a cement bag fall off the truck. It splits on the ground and the breeze takes hold of the dust and disperses it around the soldiers as though a dervish had come among them from some foreign war with its eyes closed and its arms held out. This is not just a brilliantly written and plotted novel, it is a novel for our times, warning of the possibilities of right wing populism leading to totalitarianism. Buy it now.
Note. This post uses the Classic Editor. One paragraph is parger than the others but I cannot fix it!
We recently went down to Berwick Upon Tweed – known to us as Berwick – to visit a new exhibition of L S Lowry paintings, some of which we had not seen before. The exhibition is at The Granary Gallery (good photos) the entrance of which looks over the wide River Tweed estuary. The exhibition information board tells us that Lowry, perhaps most famous for his industrial scenes the the North West of England, first visited Berwick-upon-Tweed in the mid-1930s and continued to visit the town until his death in 1976, drawn by its clear air and views out to the North Sea. In Berwick itself and on the promenade at nearby Spittal Beach, you can follow the Lowry Trail (good photos and map). The photo below shows a recognisably Lowry painting and this one was on show not behind a glass frame as the others were. The scene is Berwick pier and the shelter in which the woman and the man jauntily sit, was enhanced by Lowry to resemble what one historian called a slightly surreal pagoda. The shelter went into disrepair and demolition was avoided when a local group restored it. There is an element of symmetry here especially in the pagoda. Lowry captures the atmosphere of the beach scene – perhaps idealistically – on a sunny day in the town. This is a joyful scene and is in contrast to some of the glum looking figures we see in Lowry’s Manchester factory paintings.
On the Sands, Berwick by L S Lowry (Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)
I had not appreciated that Lowry also painted views of the sea, with none of his stick-like figures appearing in these works of art. The painting below – best enlarged – shows Lowry’s artistry to the full, particularly the clouds above the sea. This site tells us that The artist also had a lifelong fascination with open water and often painted waterscapes. In this seascape Lowry included small yachts peacefully bobbing on the horizon. Lowry used pastel for this piece to capture the mist rising up from the sea surrounding the boats. This is one of these paintings that you could easily pass by in a larger art gallery but in the enlarged photo, you can see how Lowry manages, in an impressionist way, not only the sky – with its streaks of dark blue – and the gentle waves between the yachts and what looks like a larger boat in the distance. Having classified Lowry as a painter of people in different locations, this painting was a revelation to me, and an impressive one at that.
Yachts (1920) by L S Lowry
The final work of art by Lowry (photo below) is simply entitled Tanker but what the eye is drawn to here are the waves and the sky, with the tanker serving to distinguish between the two elements. You need to enlarge the photo to get an appreciation not only of Lowry depicts the movement of the waves on the sea but also his use of colour on the waves, which alternates between blue, brown and white. This then is Lowry’s impression of the waves, the sky and the tanker, which is not shown with the straight lines we would see in a photo. To some, this might seem a dull, rather uninteresting painting of an ocean going tanker on the sea on a cloudy day, but on closer inspection we can savour Lowry’s artistry and share in his impression. If you are in the Berwick area, this is a must see exhibition and one which will certainly opened my eyes to a different side of Lowry’s work.
Tanker by L S Lowry
Our summer garden is in full bloom now with lavender, agapanthus, roses – yellow and pink – geraniums, hydrangea, pinks, fuchsia and early gladioli. The three new flowers on which I focus here are everlasting sweet peas, cornflower and parahebe. I planted an everlasting sweet pea corm about 5 years ago and each year it has grown to about two feet high but with no flowers until last year when there were perhaps four or five small flowers. This year the plant produced a plethora of pink and white flowers and these were regularly cut and brought into the house, to encourage more flowers to bloom. This plant has the scientific name Lathyrus latifolius, the origin of which is Lathyrus from the Greek Lathyros meaning pea or pulse, and Latifolius from the Latin latus (wide) and folium (leaf). The RHS define the everlasting pea as A vigorous climbing herbaceous perennial to 2m, with winged stems and paired grey-green leaflets bearing tendrils. Flowers 2-3cm in width, vivid purplish-pink, in racemes of 5-11. Looking up racemes – a new term to me – I find it means a cluster of flowers. The photo below shows a cluster of the pink/purple and white flowers – and their shadows – taken in the evening under the kitchen light, for artistic effect.
Everlasting sweet peas
The local council, over the past few years, have planted areas of wildflowers and amongst them are cornflowers of different colours. I grew mine from seed and was rewarded by a plethora of flowers which I grew in large pots. Cornflower – scientific name the impressive, strong sounding Centaureacyanus – are described by the RHS as annual to 75cm tall, with lance-shaped, slightly lobed, mid-green leaves, and solitary deep blue flowerheads 3-4cm across, with violet-blue inner florets, in late spring and summer. The cornflowers in the garden grew well but became rather straggly, although not unattractively so. The photo below (best enlarged) has the cornflowers in the same dish as above and was also taken in the evening. It shows off the different colours of cornflower heads that grew in our garden. You appreciate the colours when a few of the cornflowers are cut and brought indoors.
Cornflowers and shadows
The third new species in our garden this year is the parahebe – Parahebe catarractae – aka the Avalanche Parahebe. The RHS describes this plant as Forming a low spreading mound of rich green foliage, which in summer, is topped with short spikes of white saucer-like flowers, each with an irregular purple ring around their eye. A handsome ground-covering plant for the front of the border, it will also do well if potted up for the patio. The one we have in a pot on our decking is in its second flowering, and the delicate white flowers just keep on appearing until there is indeed an avalanche of flowers. This is a perennial plant, so it will bloom for many years as it will survive the winter, although the RHS tells me that it will have to be protected in a severe winter. The photo below (enlarge for best effect) shows the plant, which still has many more flowers to come, in the August sunshine – you can see the shadows on the larger picture. This is a delicate pant, less show-offy than the cornflour or sweet peas above, but if L S Lowry had wanted to paint an entrancing plant, he might well have chosen this one.
This has not been a summer of brilliant sunsets – only one so far but I remain hopeful with August still to come. On 19th June, just a day before the longest day of the year, we had a multi-coloured sky in the gathering darkness at 11pm. The first photo below, which reminded me of Edwin Church’s famous painting Twilight in the Wilderness and this site, which shows the painting comments that in the painting Church presents a dramatic and vivid sunset scene that captures the fleeting moments of dusk. The sky, a central element of the composition, is filled with fiery clouds that range in color from deep reds and oranges to softer yellow and blue hues, creating a powerful contrast against the cool tones of the land below. I am, of course, not comparing my photo to Church’s brilliant work of art, but some of the colours are similar. I like the way that there appears to be motion – and maybe commotion – as the swirling clouds appear to be competing with each other for space and prominence. Below the active sky, two tankers, which sat on the horizon for quite a few weeks, are anchored serenely on a calm sea, which itself has a tinge of sky colour on the left edge of the photo.
Two ships on the horizon at 11pm (Click on all photos to enlarge – recommended)
The second sky photo – below – looks very similar to the one above but one of the features of watching the late sky in June is that it constantly changes, with clouds taking on different shapes and colours, and this happens in a few seconds sometimes. This photo was taken to the left of the previous one and the sky has taken on a very different hue i.e. it is much lighter with fewer very dark clouds and the shades of orange, yellow and purple are more pronounced. The semi-darkness of the photo clearly shows the outline of the town, with Dunbar Parish Church prominent on the left and then the zig-zag pattern of roofs and chimneys of the High Street all the way along towards the harbour. Writers often refer to orange/yellow skies as being on fire. The poet Douglas Kearney writes in the poem The Orange Alert We’ve known/ the orange alert, fires reaching for helicopters/ like cartoon cats clawing at panicked birds. This refers to wildfires in California, with flames so high that they almost reach helicopters. There is definitely fire in this photo.
Orange sky over Dunbar
The third photo of the late evening sky – below – focuses only on the sky, which looks as if it is in a turmoil, like something out of a Greek legend where the gods are angry and are about to visit destruction on the earth. In fact, this was a relatively calm night, with hardly a ripple on the incoming tide. Perhaps the most famous painting of swirling clouds – much less dark than those in my photo – is Van Gogh’s The Starry Night which you can view here. What I particularly like about the sky below, is the range of colours – orange, blue, yellow and white – all seeking to be the most prominent. There is also a touch of impressionism in this sky and it might also be seen as an abstract work, with the clouds merely shapes and colours and not necessarily actual clouds. Every time I look at this photo, I see something different that did not catch my eye before, so try looking at it, then one of the photos above, and come back to it. You might be surprised what draws your eye to one part of the picture on a second or subsequent viewing. Enlarge the photo to get the best effect.
Agitated sky at 11pm in June
Sebastian Barry is one of my favourite authors and I reviewed his remarkable novel A Thousand Moons in 2020 – see here. Barry’s latest novel is Old God’s Time (Guardian review) and as expected, it is a beautifully written literary novel. We are introduced to Tom Kettle, a retired policeman who worked in Dublin and now lives in part of a renovated castle out in the countryside. From the start, we suspect that Kettle is an unreliable protagonist and throughout the novel, he recounts events which, it turns out, never took place. Nevertheless, the reader is fascinated by the ex-policeman’s memories, especially of his wife June, who suffered sexual abuse by a priest from the age of six. Kettle’s love for his wife is unlimited, both when she was alive and in his recollection of happy events. The story revolves around a visit by two Dublin policemen who are seeking Tom Kettle’s help in prosecuting another former child-abusing priest.
As the novel progresses, there is a suggestion that Tom’s wife may have been involved in the death of the priest who abused her. We have Kettle’s memory of the incident and trust that it is a true recollection, but we are never sure. The novel presents us with more tragedy near the end of the book and I thought that Barry was challenging us as readers to face the effects of trauma and death, on those left behind and for me, this does not always come off. Despite this small caveat, I would encourage everyone to read this outstanding novel in order to appreciate – at times this is a hard novel to enjoy – both the in-depth characterisation and Barry’s imaginative and at times striking prose. In the first paragraph, Barry tells us that one wall in the main room was made of special wood, its veneer capturing light and mutating it into soft brown darkness. I liked the inclusion of mutating. Later, when the weather turned nasty Scimitars of blunt wind flashed about everywhere. Barry’s descriptions of night and darkness throughout the novel are often startling images, such as The moon would soon rise and her cohort of stars like figures at a Hajj. I wrote down about twenty phrases, each one eyebrow-raising e.g. The light from the other flats was laid out on the lawn like modern paintings or A gang of impish sparrows suddenly on the tar path in front of them, like big dice thrown from a hand. This book may be an uncomfortable read at times but it one that will live in your memory. Go out and buy it!
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