Edmundbyers, stone walls and Barter’s Books

A bit late with this blog post as we have family here from Dubai. Two weeks ago, we went to the north of England to catch up with a couple we  first met in Wagga Wagga, as they both went to Wagga Wagga Road Runners. They had a cottage in the County Durham village of Edmundbyers. The village is set in beautiful countryside and the Derwent Water is nearby. It’s a great place for running, walking and cycling and we had an enjoyable walk up Muggleswick Common, from which you get a grand view across the rolling hills, down to the village and across to the Derwent Water. One of the fabulous features of this part of the country is the dry stone walls, which were built to separate land and to keep sheep enclosed. Many visitors to the north of England are amazed by the length, width and depth of these walls, and today there does not seem a particular reason for having such extensive walls, which would cost a fortune to build today. One of the answers to this is that, when the walls were constructed by the stonemasons, probably in the 18th and 19th centuries, both the materials for the walls – slate stone around here – and labour were cheap and plentiful. If you look closely at the walls, you can see how intricately built they are, with two outside layers of smooth stone and rougher stone in the middle. Building these walls is an art as well as a craft. The photos below show the village of Edmundbyers, some of the stone walls and fishermen sheltering from a very cold wind on our walk at the Derwent Water.

Edmundbyers, County Durham

Edmundbyers, County Durham

Dry stone wall

Dry stone wall

Derwent Water

Derwent Water

Within the village of Edmundbyers, we visited the 12th century church and, passing one of the houses, I noticed a plaque on the walls which read Cross Peels (photo below). I looked this up and peels, which look like oars on this plaque, are tools used by bakers to put bread into and take bread out of an oven.

Cross Peels

Cross Peels

On our way back to Dunbar, we stopped in the historic town of Alnwick, very well known for its castle and extensive gardens (good photos). We have visited these sites before and if you are in the area, they are certainly worth going to. On this visit to Alnwick, we went to Barter’s Bookshop (interesting video on this site), which is housed in the old railway station. There is a café next to the bookshop and it serves meals, coffees, teas and cakes in the old waiting rooms, including a ladies’ waiting room and first, second and third class waiting rooms. It’s likely that those who used the first class waiting room would be appalled that the hoi polloi can now use the same room. The bookshop has a wide range of second-hand books, some of which are valuable and at the entrance, there is a model railway which winds it way along the tracks above the customers’ heads. The photos show the main bookshop and the railway.

Barter's Books, Alnwick

Barter’s Books, Alnwick

Model railway in Barter's Books

Model railway in Barter’s Books


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One Response to “Edmundbyers, stone walls and Barter’s Books”

  1. mukhamani Says:

    Those stone walls are amazing, in our village, we have similar walls, built long back, they were kept on top of each other and small stones were used to fill gaps. Now such walls are not built. Regards.


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